10 Things I Loved and Hated About Santorini

 

Raise your hand if you’ve been to Santorini!

If you haven’t, let me guess. Is it on your bucket list?

I’m guessing the answer to that is a resounding yes!

Santorini is one of the most popular Greek Islands to visit. So it might come as a surprise that I’m writing a post not only about the things I loved about Santorini but also the things I hated.

I know I might be in the minority here, admitting that I hated anything at all about this gorgeous island. But since I’m a travel blogger, I feel that it’s my duty to share my truthful opinions with you. This means that sometimes I travel to an iconic destination, only to find out that it falls well below my expectations and does not live up to its reputation, (or its popularity on Instagram).

So what could I possibly find to hate in Santorini? Well, as it turns out, a few things.

But, that said, I promise you, there are also many things I loved about the island. That’s why I wanted to write this post and share my thoughts with you. As a seasoned traveler, it is always thrilling when I discover things that truly surprise me and remind me of why I love traveling in the first place. That was the case with the trip my husband and I took to Greece last summer, especially to Santorini. So keep reading to learn more about the good and the bad that we experienced on this famous island.

Why Did We Choose Santorini in the First Place?

To give you some context, Santorini would not have been my first choice of Greek islands to visit. I already visited Santorini in college, when I studied abroad in Greece. My husband, on the other hand, had never been to Greece. We thought he should see at least one of the iconic Islands which basically meant Santorini or Mykonos.

We chose Santorini because, with the unparalleled views of the Caldera, it’s an island everyone should see at least once. And I was also curious to see how much it changed since I last visited.

Pro Travel Tip: The other island we visited was Milos. This island was extraordinary. It is full of unique beaches and feels like a more authentic Greek experience with way fewer tourists. Check out my Milos Travel Guide for all of the intel you need to plan your trip there.

So are you ready to learn more about what I loved and hated in Santorini? I have so much to share with you, including a list of our favorite restaurants, bars, and things to do. Dare I say, some of these things we liked so much, we might even consider visiting Santorini again! So keep reading for the full scoop on Santorini, Greece.

Where is Santorini?

Santorini is one of about 220 islands in the Aegean Sea that make up the Cyclades Islands. The island is located approximately 127 nautical miles southeast of Athens and mainland Greece.

To share a little history with you, (My college professor would be so proud!), in the 16^th century BC, Santorini experienced a huge volcanic eruption that took much of the island with it. This geologic event is what gave Santorini its iconic and unique landscape.

Today, the most popular towns in Santorini cling to the cliff face that drops down to the Caldera (crater) where the volcano erupted. Santorini’s famed black pebble lava beaches are also because of the volcanic activity that took place.

While most people come to Santorini to enjoy the views, restaurants, and famous beaches, it’s worth noting that the island is also home to an archeological site, Akrotiri, which is Greece’s version of Pompei. It’s a town that was devastated during the volcanic eruption but preserved enough to show what life was like for islanders living then. If you are interested in ancient history and archeology, ad this historic site to your list of things to do.

In addition to Santorini, other popular Cycladic islands include Mykonos, Paros, Antiparos, Naxos, Milos, and Serifos. (As I mentioned above, Milos is my new favorite. Find out why in my Milos Travel Guide.)

Getting to Santorini

There are two ways you can get to Santorini, by boat or plane.

Greece has an extensive ferry system which makes it easy to get to all of the Cycladic islands. Piraeus, the main port area of Athens, is about a 30-minute drive from the city center. You can also use public transportation from the city center to get to Piraeus. And there is a train that links the Athens airport to the Piraeus port.

While the ferries are frequent and affordable, they are not very comfortable, and the boarding process borders on complete mayhem. (Strangely, this is something that has not changed in the 20+ years since I last visited Greece.)

If you take the ferry, book one of the high-speed options. We used Seajets. I recommend splurging for an upper-class ticket where you will have a more comfortable seat and a private seating area with fewer people. In the past, I didn’t care about crowds, but now that we are traveling in the midst of a pandemic, it’s worth considering these things.

We took the high-speed ferry from Athens to Milos and another high-speed ferry from Milos to Santorini. After landing in Santorini and seeing how crowded and unorganized the port was, we opted to fly back to Athens instead of a return ferry trip. We were so glad we made this change because we were traveling during the summer outbreak of the Delta Covid variant, and avoiding crowds was a top priority for us.

The flights from Santorini to Athens are also frequent and quick. The flight is less than an hour and quite affordable. We were also able to book last-minute flights, even though it was the peak travel season.

Pro Travel Tip: The islands often experience high winds, and this can delay both the ferries and the flights. We experienced a day when all of the ferries and flights were canceled due to the weather. Keep this in mind when you’re booking your travel, especially if you need to catch an international flight.

The Three Areas Where We Stayed in Santorini:

Firostefani – This is a small town perched on top of a cliff with dramatic views of the Caldera. We splurged and stayed at the Dana Villas and Suites while we were there. This hotel was one of the highlights of our stay. Our only regret is that we didn’t book a room with a private plunge pool. With the extreme heat and lack of shade, this amenity is a must!

We really liked Firostefani because it was quiet and uncrowded, especially compared to Thira (also spelled Fira) and Oia. Firostefani is only a short, 10-minute walk to Thira where there are plenty of bars, restaurants, and shops. In Firostefani, we felt close enough to the action, but could also enjoy peace and quiet when we needed it.

Oia – This is the most famous town in Santorini, known for its whitewashed buildings with blue shutters that hug the cliffs. Because of its popularity, Oia is extremely busy and crowded. It doesn’t help that in some places there are only narrow walkways in which you can pass others. We did not like Oia at all. We actually canceled our last night there and moved to another part of the island instead. More on that below.

Kamari Beach – The third town we stayed at was Kamari Beach, located on the opposite side of the island from the popular towns above. This town was the biggest surprise for us. We absolutely loved the rustic, laidback charm of this area and our hotel was right on the beach. We also loved the dramatic scenery here. Of course, it’s very different than the Caldera views, but nonetheless, it was unique and beautiful.

Things I Loved About Santorini

1. The Vineyards of Santorini

Did you know that Santorini is home to many vineyards? The warm, dry climate, combined with the volcanic soil, makes for some very interesting and drinkable wines, including the well-known Assyrtiko variety.

We only had the chance to visit one vineyard, Artemis Karamolegos. However, the vineyards are one of the reasons we would love to return to the island. This vineyard in particular was recommended by a friend and it was a wonderful choice. We did our tasting out on the terrace, next to the lovely garden. The vineyard also offers cooking classes and serves dinner paired with their wines.

2. The Iconic Greek Whitewashed Buildings and Architecture

There’s a reason that the Caldera towns on the cliffs of Santorini are photographed so much. In addition to the splendid views, the towns are full of the iconic whitewashed architecture everyone equates with the Greek islands. It is worth exploring these towns, for this reason alone. Just know that your legs might hate you the next day after all of the steps you’ll climb!

But beyond the whitewashed buildings, the other thing I noticed (and loved) is how many of the hotels, restaurants, and bars have embraced a super chic, beachy design aesthetic. The interiors we experienced made us feel like we just walked into a feature of Architectural Digest.

3. The Caldera Views

Ok, let’s talk about those views because honestly, they are breathtaking. The views are why everyone should visit Santorini at least once. The best way to take in the Caldera views is at sunset. Find a seat at one of the many cliff-hugging bars or restaurants, order a cocktail, and relax as you watch the sun slowly sink to the sea. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience you won’t forget.

One travel tip to ensure the best experience is to book a table in advance for watching the sunset. Most of the bars and restaurants in Thira, Firostefani, and Oia take reservations. I saw many people get turned away because they didn’t have one. This is obviously most important if you are traveling during the height of summer. If you are there during the shoulder seasons, you might have better luck getting a table at the last minute.

4. The Quieter Side of Santorini

While most people flock to the cliffside towns that line the Caldera, there’s something to be said about Kamari. This village is on the east coast of Santorini, also known as the quieter side of the island. Unexpectedly, we spent our last night here. Immediately, we fell in love with the tranquility and laid-back vibe of this seaside town.

What did we love most? The fact that Kamari had no crowds, even though we were in Santorini during the high season. We also enjoyed the black pebble beach that we had mostly to ourselves. My favorite part was the dramatic backdrop of Mesa Vouno, a steep, rocky mountain with ancient ruins at the top.

The only downside for us is that we couldn’t spend more time in Kamari. If we come back to Santorini, this is where we will stay. We want to check out the open-air cinema, spend lazy afternoons on the beach, and eat seaside dinners on the café-lined promenade. If you want to experience both sides of Santorini, I recommend staying in Kamari. Rent a car to get around. Then you can visit all of the cliffside towns that overlook the Caldera. To me, this is the best of both worlds.

5. Sailing Around the Island

One of the best days we had in Santorini was taking a chartered sailboat trip around the island. There are many companies that offer these day-long cruises, at different price points. We opted for a more premium experience on a catamaran, with a small group of people.

We booked our trip with Santorini Yachting Club. Our day started in the port below Oia, and ended on the other side of the island, at Vilchada. Most of these trips include pick-up and drop-off at your hotel, so you don’t need to worry about transportation.

On our sailing trip, we made a few stops including swimming in the thermal hot springs at the Nea Kameni Volcanic Park. Throughout the day, we were served wine, beer, water, and soft drinks. The boat staff also cooked a delicious homemade meal for us.

But honestly? The best part is getting to swim in all of these spectacular spots that you only have access to by boat. And with the sun beating down on you, there is nothing more refreshing than diving into the cold and clear Aegean sea.

When we go back to the Greek Islands this coming summer, (Yes, we’re already planning our trip!) a full-day boat experience is at the top of our list of things to do.

Things I Hated About Santorini:

1. The Over tourism of Oia

I knew to expect a lot of people in Oia, but what we actually experienced was extremely overwhelming. Everywhere we tried to walk, there were throngs of people. If you didn’t have a reservation, it was impossible to get into restaurants. The town also has some really cute boutiques and shops, but there were too many people to properly enjoy them. And the music blaring late into the night from the clubs and bars didn’t help.

Obviously, we felt even more sensitive to the crowds because the Delta variant was starting to spread. But the irony is that because of Covid, we were experiencing crowds that were only about a third of what it’s usually like in Santorini in July and August. So I can’t imagine how crowded Oia must be during a typical summer when there is no pandemic.

If you have never been to Santorini, I promise that you can still have an incredible experience and fully enjoy Oia without staying there. I recommend you consider this not only because of the crowds but also because of the prices. Some of the ‘nicer’ boutique hotels charge upwards of one thousand dollars a night during the prime tourist season. If I’m going to spend that kind of money for one night at a hotel, it better be a pretty epic experience that includes more than a small, white-washed room with incredible views.

Of course, this is just my opinion! If your dream trip includes staying in Oia, go for it! We all have different perspectives. If I was younger, I probably wouldn’t care as much about the crowds and loud music blaring late into the night. (Gosh, I sound old!) And if you book early enough, there are Airbnbs and hotels that offer rooms at a more reasonable price. These places book up quickly though, so plan at least a few months in advance to snag one of these cheaper options.

If we do go back to Santorini, we will never stay in Oia again. It’s just not worth it for us. Instead, we’ll stay in Kamari, the quieter part of the island, and just come to Oia for an afternoon or evening to experience the hustle and bustle.

2. The Constant Power Outages in Santorini

It’s funny. I did a ton of research when I was booking our trip to Greece and nobody mentioned anything about the power outages in Santorini. We experienced a few of them while we were on the island. We started asking the locals about it and apparently, it’s quite typical during the summer season.

The problem is that the electric grid on the island is outdated. It can’t handle the demand when the island reaches maximum capacity. And it gets even worse when the island experiences a heatwave because every hotel, restaurant, and bar turns up the AC.

One of the power outages we experienced in Santorini was while we were staying in Oia. It lasted longer than 24 hours. We were also there during a heatwave. It wasn’t an issue during the day, but it was impossible to sleep at night. Even opening a window didn’t do much because all of the hotel rooms are built into the cliffs like caves, so the only windows are by the entryway to the room, so there is no cross ventilation.

I’m fully aware that this is a ‘first world problem’ we experienced and there are many people in the world who live without electricity and air conditioning all the time. This certainly didn’t ruin our trip. We rolled with it and made the best of it. But I do think it’s worth mentioning here because it’s a real problem for the island, and nothing is being done to alleviate it. It’s something to consider if you’re planning a trip to Santorini during the high season and paying a lot of money for your accommodations.

3. The Traffic and Narrow Roads

Driving in Santorini is not for the faint of heart. Between the treacherous winding roads and the traffic, driving is a full-on adrenaline rush. The traffic is particularly bad in Oia, where it is also very hard to find parking.

If you visit Santorini, my recommendation is to rent a car for part of your stay, so you can explore different areas of the island. You don’t need a car if you are spending your days in any of the cliffside towns.

We booked our rental car through our hotel. When I’m traveling overseas, I always find this easier than booking directly with the rental agency, especially when there is a language barrier. The hotel was also able to arrange a drop-off and pick-up of our rental car so we didn’t have to waste our time at the rental car agency.

Pro Travel Tip: You need an international driver’s license to rent a car anywhere in Europe. This includes ATVs and moped rentals. If you live in the United States and have a US driver’s license, you can get an international license at any Triple-A location, for about $20.

4. The Wind

As I mentioned above, the wind can be quite fierce on all of the Cycladic islands. There’s actually a name for it. It’s called the Meltemi, and it’s the northern wind that blows from early July through mid-August.

The winds are caused by atmospheric pressure differences between Europe and Africa. And once they start blowing, there isn’t much to stop them because the Cycladic islands consist of a more barren landscape, with few trees or mountains to slow it down.

While the wind can bring relief to the excessive summer heat, it also makes it challenging to sit down for an alfresco meal. My husband and I remember one dinner where the wind was so strong it almost blew our plates and glassware off the table! While it can be a nuisance, we quickly learned to deal with it and embrace the days when the winds died down!

5. The Never-Ending Stairs

The upside of having towns located at the top of a cliff is the spectacular view. The downside is that you will constantly be climbing stairs to get anywhere! Yes, the stairs are part of the charm of Santorini. But it is something to consider if you are not in good shape or have health issues.

Most hotels are also spread across multiple levels and involve a lot of climbing. For example, when we stayed at the Dana Villas and Suites, we had to walk down 6 flights of stairs to get to the common area for breakfast. Getting to breakfast was fine. But getting back to our room on a full stomach was a workout!

Some Santorini Recommendations

Below is a short list of places we loved. I highly recommend adding them to your list if you plan to visit Santorini.

Dana Villas and Suites – We loved the hotel we stayed at in Firostefani. It was a splurge but totally worth it. The white-washed rooms were beautiful with unobstructed views of the Caldera. The staff was super attentive and helpful. (We booked our stay using Chase Sapphire points. It was a great redemption value for us.)

Bellonias Villas – This is the beachside hotel we stayed at in Kamari. It was super chic and had a great pool. The food here was also outstanding.

Seaside Santorini – A stylish beach club located on one of Santorini’s iconic black pebble beaches. Rent a cabana bed for the day and indulge in the great cocktails and sushi. This was one of our favorite days on the island.

Artemis Karamolegos Vineyard – This was the only vineyard we had time to visit but we loved it. We made a reservation in advance to do a wine tasting in their garden. It was the perfect way to spend an afternoon on the island.

Argo – An authentic Greek restaurant in Fira with epic sunset views. When you book a table, request to sit on the top (3^rd floor) of the restaurant for the best caldera and sunset views.

Santorini Yachting Club – We booked our full-day sailing trip with this company. I highly recommend using them. The crew was professional and fun and the company has many different options at different price points.

Are You Ready to Plan a Trip to Santorini, Greece?

I hope that my honest critique of Santorini helps you plan your own trip to this beautiful, Greek island. As I said, there are plenty of things to do here. It’s just a matter of figuring out what suits your style best.

After visiting two very different islands in Greece, my husband and I realize that we prefer the islands that are more off the beaten path and not packed with tourists. When we return to Greece, we plan to check out more of the quieter islands like Serifos, Naxos, and Anti Paros. 

Now I’d love to hear from you! Have you been to Santorini? If so, what did you love and hate about it? What recommendations do you have? Please share below so everyone in the Let’s Be Merry community can add your tips to our travel lists. Thanks!

If you’re planning a trip to Greece, check out my Milos Travel Guide.

Staying closer to home this summer? Check out my Maine Travel Guide.