10 Things I Loved and Hated about Vieques

Let me begin with this. Despite the fact that I’ll be talking about things I love and hate about Vieques in this post, overall I think that this rugged, tropical island in the Caribbean is 100% worth visiting.

Ok, now that I got out of the way…let’s dive in.

The reason I went to Vieques was for a work trip. I was directing an episode of House Hunters International there. (Curious to know more about my job? Check out my post about that time I spent a week living in a cave in the Australia Outback.)

I get to learn a lot about a destination when I visit for work. I’m exposed to more than your typical tourist or visitor and often get the perspective of locals, which really informs my opinion about where I’m visiting.

That said, even if I had come to Vieques for vacation, my perspective about this Caribbean island would have remained the same. In general, I really liked Vieques, and definitely want to come back to explore even more. (I think it would be a great trip to take with a group of friends.)

However, as a travel blogger you’ve come to know and trust, it would be remiss if I just shared the good stuff with you and left out the negative. So in this post, I’m sharing with you 10 things I loved and hated about Vieques.

First, though, let me give you the basics.

Where is Vieques?

Vieques is a small, inhabited island off the east coast of Puerto Rico. The island boasts a population of around 10,000 people and is considered a municipality of Puerto Rico.

The island has two main towns. Isabel Segunda, where the local ferry arrives from Puerto Rico, is full of candy-colored, dilapidated colonial buildings, and feels a bit sleepy. Esperanza, the smaller town on the other side of the island, mostly consists of a waterfront strip of restaurants and lodging that primarily caters to tourists.

Like Puerto Rico, Vieques suffered extreme damage from hurricanes Irma and Maria in the fall of 2017. While the island has made quite a comeback, many things like the W Hotel are still closed. (Supposedly insurance claims are holding up the hotel from reopening.) However, power is up and running, wifi is readily available and life has mostly resumed it’s normal, laid back pace.

US citizens do not need a passport to travel to Puerto Rico or Vieques. The currency used on the island is US dollars and like Puerto Rico, the main language spoken is Spanish.

One important thing to note about Vieques is that there is no hospital, only a small health clinic. It has become a big controversy on the island because the local community feels that local lives have been lost because there is no hospital. It is something to consider, particularly if you’re traveling to the island with kids.

Getting to Vieques

There are two ways to get to Vieques from Puerto Rico, either by boat or plane. Most flights leave from San Juan International airport. The airlines that fly to Vieques are Cape Air, Seaborne Airlines and Vieques Air Link. The flight is about 30 minutes long and they use very small propeller planes. (This flight is not for fearful flyers!)

There is also a ferry that runs from Ceiba, Puerto Rico to Isabel Segunda, Vieques a few times a day, weather permitting. The ferry ride is about 45 minutes long and Ceiba is around an hour-long drive from San Juan International Airport.

Things I Loved About Vieques

1. The abundant natural surroundings of Vieques

Vieques is breathtaking. From the cliffs towering over the ocean and verdant greenery to the pristine white-sand beaches and turquoise water, it’s obvious why so many have fallen in love with the rugged beauty of this island.

Unlike other islands in the Caribbean, much of Vieques has been preserved and untarnished by development. This is because the US Navy occupied two-thirds of the island until 2001. When they left, they transferred all of the lands they used to the US Fish and Wildlife Service who now have designated that land a wild refuge, some of which is open to the public to enjoy.

2. The wild horses

Technically, the horses aren’t completely wild. They are owned by people on the island but allowed to roam free. Regardless, the packs of horses you see all over the island are quite a beautiful and stunning vision to see.

But how did the horses get here? The horses, mostly a breed called paso fino, (which is a mix of breeds from North Africa and Spain) were originally brought to the island by Spanish conquistadors. They are now one of the iconic and most famous attributes of Vieques.

3. The beaches

You’d be hard-pressed to find another Caribbean island that has as many remote and quiet beaches as Vieques. That’s because much of the island is made up of a national wildlife refuge. Some of the beaches located in the reserve are a bit challenging to get too (don’t count on google maps to help you because service can be spotty on the island), but once you find these secluded white sand beaches, you’ll be rewarded with a beautiful stretch of beach mostly if not entirely to yourself. Popular ones include Caracas and Secret Beach.

There are also some great beaches outside of the reserve, including Black Sand Beach (a warning: this one is quite a hike to get too) and Sun Bay Beach, which is very popular because it has facilities (most beaches on the island do not). The latter is also walking distance from the main strip of Esperanza and is a great spot to spend the day if you want to be near amenities like restaurants and bars.

4. Mosquito Bay

One of the most special things about Vieques is Mosquito Bay, which is the brightest bioluminescent bay in the world. The bay is closed off to tourists and locals alike unless you book a tour with one of the official tour companies. This is a good thing. It keeps the bay from getting polluted and overcrowded.

Kayaking at night in Mosquito Bay to see the glow-in-the-dark dinoflagellates (single-cell microorganisms) is for sure a bucket list experience and a must-do if you visit Vieques. They normally run two tours per night (weather permitting), at 7p and 9p. This was the one ‘touristy’ thing my colleagues and I were able to squeeze in during our work trip and it was well worth it!

5. The laid back vibe

This is probably my favorite quality of this island because I love a vacation where ‘getting dressed up’ for dinner means brushing the sand off your flipflops and throwing on a tee-shirt and jean shorts. That’s Vieques in a nutshell.

Everything on the island is laid back and casual. This is not the island to come to if you’re looking for an exuberant nightlife of packed bars and clubs. One of the bigger weekly parties on the island takes place on Sunday evenings at the El Blok hotel and that winds down by 8:30 pm. That should give you a sense of the amount of ‘partying’ that’s done on the island.

Related: Looking for a place to stay in Vieques? Check out my full review of the El Blok Hotel.

Things I hated about Vieques

1. Getting there

Getting to Vieques is a pain and it’s also time-consuming. If you fly into Puerto Rico the same day you’re traveling to Vieques, you’re looking at a full day of travel. Vieques is not the best option for you if all you want is a quick weekend getaway to the Caribbean.

As I mentioned above, flying involves a short flight in a puddle jumper. The plane is tiny and this is not the option I would recommend if you’re a fearful flyer.

Cape Air, Seaborne Airlines and Vieques Air Link all fly to Vieques from San Juan International Airport. Keep in mind there are strict baggage allowances due to the small size of the planes.

You can also take the ferry (a 45-minute ride), which leaves a few times a day from Ceiba. It’s about a 60-minute drive from the airport in San Juan, so make sure you factor in this travel time when booking your flight to Puerto Rico and booking the ferry to Vieques.

2. How pricey everything is in Vieques

This was really surprising to me and it’s the same thing in Puerto Rico as well. In particular, the food is very expensive, even if you’re eating in what one would consider a ‘hole in the wall’ beach shack. The average price for dinner (one glass of wine and an entrée) could easily run you $40, which is actually more expensive then what I would pay at many restaurants in NYC! Part of the reason for this is because most things are imported to the island. It’s just the cost of doing business here.

I’m sharing this info with you so you can factor this into your vacation budget. It’s also something to consider if you’re traveling on a strict budget.

3. The scarcity of good accommodations

The lack of good accommodations on the island is partially due to the damage Vieques sustained from both hurricanes Irma and Maria. The W (part of the Starwood collection) was the only large, 5-star hotel on the island but has not reopened after sustaining substantial damage. (The rumor on the island is that insurance payments are holding things up.) The other reason is that much of the island is a wildlife reserve, so in general, development has been limited.

My crew and I stayed at the only viable option for us, the El Blok hotel. (Read my full review of the El Blok hotel.) Even though we were staying at the most upscale hotel on the island, things were hit and miss.

If you’re coming with a group of people to the island, my recommendation is to rent an Airbnb rather than booking at a hotel or bed and breakfast.

4. Getting Around the Island

This is another thing that is not so easy. Since we were there for work, we hired a van and driver for the week and didn’t have any issues. However, if you’re coming as a tourist, you will need a car, and I recommend a 4-wheel drive vehicle if you want to explore some of the island’s more remote beaches. (And let’s be honest, that’s one of the main draws for coming here!)

I heard from various people that renting a car is not easy. Even when you have a confirmed reservation, it doesn’t guarantee you’ll get a car. There are also taxi services (large vans) that carpool people around the island. This works well if you’re just spending the day on the island or if you need transport to the main tourist areas of the island.

5. The ‘mixed’ customer service

Considering the Vieques economy is primarily based on tourism, I was very surprised by the general lack of good customer service we encountered in many places. I couldn’t understand why many people working in the restaurants (and at our hotel), were not helpful and were actually a bit rude. Considering tourism is something the island wants more of –  especially since they are still rebuilding after the recent hurricanes – you would think that people would be nice to tourists. But in many cases, that is not what my crew and I experienced.

Of course, there are people working in hospitality on the island who were quite nice and helpful. But I bring this up because I’ve traveled all over the world and I’ve never experienced this overall lack of friendliness elsewhere, so it was surprising, to say the least.

Some Vieques Recommendations

Below is a shortlist of places we loved and I highly recommend adding to your list if you plan to visit Vieques.

• El Blok Restaurant – This is by far the best restaurant that has a beachy-chic vibe with standout cocktails and food.
• El Quenepo Vieques – We loved this restaurant. So much so, we ate there twice! While we felt it had the best food on the island, it also has the most expensive prices, rivaling that of a high-end restaurant in NYC. It’s a splurge for sure, but worth it.
• Bananas – Another restaurant on the malecon in Esperanza, it’s a great spot for lunch or a drink at sunset.
• Crab Island Rum Distillery – this place recently opened. They do tours and rum tastings. Highly recommend!
• El Callejero Taco Truck – Who can say no to tacos?! This food truck gets it right. They are normally parked in a field by the Esperanza sign, near the Green Store.

Are You ready to visit Vieques?

Now that I’ve shared 10 things I love and hate about Vieques, what are your thoughts?

Are you ready to visit this tranquil and rustic Caribbean island?

I hope this post has helped you make a decision. And I promise you one thing – if you make the effort to get there, you won’t be disappointed. Some places are worth it. Vieques is one of those places.