Things to do in Pondicherry: The Travel Guide

If you’re looking for things to do in Pondicherry, then this travel guide is for you.

Where is Pondicherry, you might ask? It’s a city in the south of India, situated on the Bay of Bengal.

When I was based in Chennai earlier this year with my husband,  we spent a weekend in Pondicherry and were completely captivated.

Pondicherry is unlike any other place I’ve visited in India. Some might say it’s the cobblestone streets, or the brightly painted colonial buildings of White Town, or even the sea air. But I think it’s a feeling, a joie de vivre that permeates this seaside city and makes you feel charmed and relaxed, all at once.

In a turn of phrase, Pondicherry is a mood.

It’s the perfect city to explore because there is so much to do. Whether you want to admire the architecture, soak up the city’s rich history, enjoy the stillness at the famous Sri Aurobindo Ashram, sunbathe on the beach or indulge in French-inspired food, there is literally something for everyone.

So are you ready to learn more about this French colonial city in southern India?

The Pondicherry Travel guide:

The History of Pondicherry

Pondicherry, (Officially known as Puducherry now) was a French colony until 1954, and it became a Union Territory of India in 1962. (For reference, Delhi is another Union Territory in India.) It is surrounded by the southeastern Indian state, Tamil Nadu.

Related: My top places to visit in Tamil Nadu, India

The French first came to Pondicherry in the 1700s. Originally a fishing village, Pondicherry became a major port city for the French, and their continued presence for over two centuries would shape it into the unique Indian city that it is today.

Today, the French influence of this city is primarily found in its architecture, food, and attitude. The city is a very popular tourist destination for Europeans, particularly the French.

White Town in particular (also informally called Old Town and French Town) is a small neighborhood adjacent to the sea, with French colonial buildings and tree-lined streets. It is the area where most tourists stay as its full of quirky cafes, bohemian shops, and boutique hotels.

How to Get to Pondicherry:

Pondicherry has a small domestic airport with daily flights from Bangalore. There are also trains and buses available to the city.

My husband and I have were based in Chennai when we visited Pondicherry, so we hired a car and a driver for the 3-hour road trip south along the East Coast Road. It’s actually a very scenic drive, so if you are visiting from an international destination, my recommendation is to fly into Chennai (Madras) international airport and then drive down to Pondicherry.

Pro Travel Tip: While you can use Uber in India, my husband and I use Ola more because the rates are cheaper. Ola is exactly like Uber except it’s local to India. Download the app onto your phone once you’re in India.

The Climate in Pondicherry

The climate in Pondicherry is hot and humid, pretty much year-round! That said, it gets a little cooler during the winter months. In general, pack light, breathable clothing. Linens and maxi dresses are the best. (As a woman, I recommend dressing more modestly in India, in keeping with the culture.) Bring a sweater for the evenings when the ocean breeze cools things down. And rain gear is a must if you visit during monsoon season, which is generally July through September.

Where to Stay in Pondicherry

There are quite a few stylish and affordable boutique hotels in Pondicherry. I recommend staying in White Town because there are so many things to do in this part of Pondicherry and its helpful to be walking distance to the many popular restaurants, bars, and shops in the area.

• Villa Shanti: This is my top recommendation for anyone coming to stay in Pondicherry. It is a boutique hotel with understated luxury. The building has a large central courtyard with a living plant wall, a chic bar, and a fabulous restaurant. The rooms are well-appointed and comfortable and it’s centrally located in White Town.
• La Villa: This place books up fast because there are only a few rooms. I can’t wait to stay here the next time I visit because I love good design and this hotel, designed by two French architects, has done a great job of blending the old with the new. It’s also situated right in the heart of White Town.
• Palais de Mahe: Close to the seaside promenade, this is a hotel that oozes French charm. With a large courtyard, a private swimming pool and sweeping verandahs, the only problem you might have here is leaving the historic charm here to go sightseeing.
• Promenade: If you don’t mind a larger, less unique hotel, I recommend the Promenade which, as the name suggests, is right on the seaside. Get a room with a view of the Bay of Bengal, and feast on Asian fare at their rooftop restaurant Bay of Buddha (more on this restaurant below) or enjoy a cocktail at the trendy Storyteller’s Bar (one of our favorite watering holes in Pondicherry).
• Sri Aurobindo Ashram: By far, the most unique stay you can have in Pondicherry is renting a room at the Sri Aurobindo Ashram. The guest houses are located in close proximity to the Ashram (which is definitely worth a visit if you are in Pondicherry) and the beach, and some rooms even have ocean views. Please note the Ashram has strict rules which you must abide by if you stay there.

Things to do in Pondicherry:

• Stroll the seaside promenade at sunset – One of the things we loved most about visiting Pondicherry was taking a stroll at sunset along the seaside promenade. In general, Southern India comes alive in the late afternoon and sunset, after everyone has taken respite from the afternoon heat. So it was great to people watch as other couples and families took in the sea air and enjoyed the cool ocean breeze. I highly recommend doing this if you make it to Pondicherry!
• Sri Aurobindo Ashram: Visiting the Ashram and learning more about the Mother (one of the founders of the Ashram) was a highlight for us. We really tapped into the peaceful and meditative spirit of the Ashram and enjoyed spending time sitting in silence with other visitors. Please note that you must take off your shoes and turn off your cell phones before you enter the premises.
• Bike ride tour through Pondicherry: We did not have a chance to do this while we visited Pondicherry but it’s at the top of our list when we make it back for another visit. I think bike riding is such a great way to explore a city, especially the charming streets of Pondicherry.
• Boat ride to Paradise Beach: One of the activities we did that we really loved was taking a boat ride from Chunnambar Boat House to Paradise beach. A word of warning though, this is a public beach and in general, Indians are much more modest than Westerners. While I did take a quick dip in the ocean, I did not feel comfortable sitting on the beach in my bathing suit and kept my cover up on the entire time.
• Temple Hopping: There are a few great temples to see in Pondicherry including, Arulmigu Manakulu Vinayagar Temple, dedicated to Lord Ganesha and located in White Town, Sri Varadaraja Perumal Temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu and built in the Dravidian style of architecture, and Sri Kokilambigai Vudanurai Sri Thirukameswarar Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva and boasting ornate carvings and a brightly colored exterior, located 9 KM southwest of Pondicherry. Make sure you check the times that the temples are open before visiting. Most Hindu temples open very early in the morning but are closed for a few hours in the afternoon.
• Auroville: It’s hard to describe Auroville but it is a very special place that if possible, you should make time to visit. Auroville is an experimental township dedicated to the ideal of Human Unity. It was founded by Mirra Alfassa (the Mother) in 1968 and is affiliated with the Sri Aurobindo Ashram. Approximately 2500 people live there now. It’s about 11 km outside of Pondicherry, so you need transportation to get there. You can either take your own car, hire a taxi or take a bus. I recommend giving yourself at least half a day to visit Auroville. The most important site to see is the Matrimandir, a giant geodesic dome, surrounded by 12 petals. It is meant to represent the soul of the city.

Pro Travel Tip: You can sign up to spend time visiting the inside of the Matrimandir but you must arrive very early in the morning at Auroville to get on the list, and you must sign up the day before you plan to visit. So plan ahead if you want to do this. Go to Auroville on your first morning in Pondicherry so you have time to fit this in during your stay. We were not in Pondicherry long enough to do this but plan to sign up for this the next time we are there.

Where to Eat and Drink in Pondicherry:

• Storyteller’s Bar: My husband and I discovered this bar by accident but it was one of our best discoveries. Hidden on a subterranean level of the Promenade Hotel, walking into the bar felt like finding a tucked-away speakeasy. The theme – a celebration of books – spoke to my heart since reading is one of my favorite things to do. The cocktails were also on point. It’s a great spot for a drink or two.
• Bay of Buddha: Located on the rooftop of the Promenade Hotel, this is a great spot if you’re looking for an alfresco dinner with panoramic views. While the food was good, the service was definitely lacking. Be prepared to wait if you eat here.
• Villa Shanti: We had an incredible dinner here. We loved the French-inspired menu and the setting in the courtyard was magical. Please note this is a very popular restaurant so I recommend making reservations in advance.
• Café des Arts: This is another restaurant I absolutely loved. From their cheeky murals out front to the bohemian design inside, this cafe was a dreamy respite from the heat. The laid back vibe of the place makes it a better spot for breakfast or lunch. Try one of their smoothies or many coffees, along with a salad or sandwich. They also have a boutique selling a mishmash of clothing, home décor, and accessories.
• Coromandel Café: This was one of the most beautifully designed restaurants we visited in all of Pondicherry. The attention to detail in this café says it all. From the beautifully painted walls and tiles to the sculptural chandeliers, every piece was picked out with precision. The French-inspired menu was also a crowd-pleaser. We came for lunch but can’t wait to try dinner here the next time we return to Pondicherry.

Where to Shop in Pondicherry:

With so many things to do in Pondicherry, we didn’t have much time for shopping. Based on research I did, these are the boutiques to keep on your radar:

• Kalki Boutique: showcases Auroville products in Pondicherry
• Geethanjali: for all kinds of antiques
• La Boutique D’Auroville: for handicrafts and home decor
• Casablanca: for both Western and Indian styled clothing and decor
• Anokhi: The original store is in Jaipur, they sell Indian ethnic womenswear (It’s one of my favorite stores in India)
• Café Des Arts – A great shop for unique clothing, home decor and vintage pieces

Are You Ready to Visit Pondicherry?

I hope this Pondicherry travel guide will help you plan your trip! As you can see, there are plenty of things to do in this charming, French colonial city. We really loved our visit here and can’t wait to go back.

If you’ve already been, which places do you love? Please comment below because I always getting new adding travel recommendations.

Happy travels!